Autumn Winter 2011-12 Trend Confirmation from Premiere Vision

on 16/10/10

Premiere Vision is one of the most important dates in the design calendar with the majority of International designers, brands & retailers visiting to get clear trend direction for the forthcoming seasons & to source their fabrics & trims. Although the trends are normally set by the trend agencies 2-3 months before,  Premiere Vision  though does act a confirmation of the trends - because if you see it at the exhibition it is more or less guaranteed to take place. 

In this report we analyse the key trend direction for fabrics, trims & embellishments and look at how this impacts on the womenswear & menswear markets:

Spirit of Autumn Winter 2011-12

Casual and Luxury were the two most important words to describe the spirit of the season. Softness and protective suppleness were inherent in the forums, along with comfort. There was far more emphasis on the heavier protective weights than shown at the previous autumn fair. The casualwear sector has the greatest influence on material direction, to put a new spin on elegance. The alliances between all the fabric categories bond and cross-reference much more closely than ever before.

Materials are making a significant shift, the boundaries between formal and casual are blurring; tailoring fabrics become more luxuriously supple and relaxed whereas casualwear fabrics are further refined and elegant. Materials have a chameleon quality; first they look familiar, and then suddenly reveal surprising qualities and innovations in double, triple layers, contrasting textures, surface finishes and multi-functional properties.

Innovative Fabrics at Premiere Vision

The overriding impression of the trade show was that future materials boasted intriguing involvedness and were a test of one’s ability to decipher the yarns and construction, sometimes to differentiate between a knit and a weave! Fabrics are getting very clever indeed. A comment recorded by a sport/streetwear buyer to Premiere Vision, ‘We are looking for original fabrics, even if we have to ask for special developments’.

Colour Ranges Autumn Winter 2011-12

Colours are full and rounded and fell into three main categories:

  • More than nourishing: warm, edible and full. Candied orange, pink and reddish tones and more gossamer light sugar tones
  • More than natural: full-bodied and more cool -toned.  Evocative of industrial and natural landscapes.  Frozen and luminous horizons, leaden skies. Cool intense browns, organic greens filtered by synthetic light – a chromatic colour range with a photographic quality
  • More than essential: an elementary range of soberly coloured darks, softly luminous blonde, elegant neutrals. A rigorous and contemporary colour range for creating bold contrasts and interesting colour harmonies

General Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

Three key themes for Autumn Winter 2011-12:

Trend Direction 1: Rigorously Offbeat

Fabrics that look familiar yet reveal an off-beat side.

Key directions within this theme:

  • Casualised new tailoring, even the most luxurious of tailoring fabrics are washed and given a blurred appearance
  • Supple construction - wools have honeycombed and more visible weave constructions
  • Airy and articulated embroideries and lace
  • Geometric patterns, chainmail and circular motifs
  • Laser cutting – fabrics like taffeta cut to form concertina pleated effect
  • Bonded synthetics – example by Schoeller Textil (Swiss) below, a techno holey knit bonded onto synthetic base for an ultra sports fabric

Schoeller Textil at Premiere Vision

  • Ultra light padded down fabric, akin to luxury ski and sportswear brand ‘Moncler’. Luxury wadded fabric is made new with embroidery embellishment
  • Denser fluidity – lofty and rounder fabrics with double layered effects, distinct yarn constructions
  • Highly structured weaves with density, fluidity and stretch quality Novalan (Spain)
  • Denims get more tailored, darkest indigo, soft and supple
  • Tailoring fabrics start to have a denim impression
  • Reverse of fabric is as important as the face. Denim face with a distinctive woven stripe back. Showa (Japan)

Fabric by Showa at Premiere Vision

  • Classic fabrics have more distinct constructions and softer handles
  • Tennis stripes finely faded by indigo dyed effects
  • Wools take on the appearance of distressed leather with film bonding -Sotoh (Japan)
  • Luxurious heaviness – double faced jerseys
  • Dense and matt large scale embroideries and crochet laces with ultra soft handle, example by Sophie Hallette (France) below

Lace by Sophie Hallette at Premiere Vision

  • Waterproofed tailoring, taffeta and felted fabrics get the waterproofed finishing
  • Luxurious heartiness – dense wool crepes
  • Rounded and generous crepes
  • Elaborate and generous jacquards
  • Felted and boiled wool finishes
  • Double faced woven satins in two-colour contrasts

Kipas Shirting at Premiere Vision

Trend Direction 2: Authentic and Eccentric

Rustic turns more chic, mixing up the real and the fake.

Key directions within theme:

  • Digitally printed  scenic prints, depicting nature
  • Naturally imperfect – rusticity is portrayed with more supple handles and new constructions. Linen and wool blends, distressed corduroy, chenille laces, woollen jacquards, printed and distressed velvets. Inky dark brown and blue colour combinations

Printed Velvet at Premiere Vision

  • Waxed surfaces – wool suiting fabrics are given a twist with wax finishes, waxed cotton takes the ‘Barbour’ to a more sophisticated level
  • Leather tapework embroidery. An example by Forster Rohner (Switz) uses leather tapework to form abstract flowers on a sheer net ground
  • Trick of the eye –  printed tweed patterns by Liberty London. Sequinned fabric by innovative Swiss textile/embroidery company Jakob Schlaepfer created a fabric entirely made of sequins which looked like a tweed fabric until you touched it.

Jakob Schlaepfer at Premiere Vision

  • Boucle weaves over embroidered with sequins, à la Chanel
  • Jacquard knits imitate hand-knits and tweeds
  • Lightweight synthetic with digitally printed tweed pattern
  • Washed woollens with over dyed and overprinted effects to give an aged feel
  • Boiled and crushed fabrics, needle punching techniques

Crushed fabric at Premiere Vision

  • Supple and relaxed denims
  • Heavyweight jumper references – bonded wool with fleece backing, engineered technical knit by Serin (Japan), felted wool-faced jacquard, giant cables and bonded knits for sweaters
  • Lumberjack plaids with ultra soft finishes
  • Blistered and dented jacquards and plains
  • Felted fabrics next autumn have greater sophistication and volume - super dense and ultra soft

Felted fabric at Premiere Vision

Trend Direction 3: Poetic Conquests 

Nature borders on the strange, creativity and technology combine.

  • Dishevelled – hairy and pile fabrics made more voluminous with ultra soft and lofty mohair yarns
  • Elaborately fringed fabrics that have the appearance of fur
  • Distressed and washed pile finishes
  • Misty wools – the softest and supplest blanket plaids, tiered woollen frills, sparkle mesh with delicate mohair embroidery, soft wool laces

Fabric by Euromaglia at Premiere Vision

  • Hazy and misty woollen voiles, downy soft knits and gauzes
  • Skin-deep – lightweight baby cords and suedes, cupro yarns for easy care, matt and fine microfibre fleeces
  • Soft technicals - peachskin featherweights for bonded application
  • Multi-layered – double faced and even three layered effects which still maintain a lightness and softness
  • Strata – wovens with floating wefts, needle-punching techniques, crinkle chiffons, torn and shredded effects, threadbare cobweb laces and embroideries, matted and open lacey wools

Open lacey wools at Premiere Vision

  • Mohair clouds – cocooning mohairs, boucle yarns and brushed surfaces
  • Luxuriously soft and lofty fleeces
  • Furs – elaborate and new age pile fabrics. Shimmering furs with printed metallic effects and sequin embellishment
  • Reticent shine – calendered and chinzed cottons. Antiqued laces with tarnished metallic yarns, plasticised coatings, black crystal effect yarns for embroidery, matt sequins. Powdery metallic shimmer on silks, laces and knits

Metallic Fabrics at Premiere Vision

  • Imaginative bondings - 2 and 3 layered effects. An example by Alberto Bardazzi (Spain) displayed a veiled foil print lightly trapped between 2 layers of gauzy wool
  • Ombréd shirtings and denims
  • Earthy haze - hazy floral prints on wool, velvet or textured surfaces where the haze is exaggerated with mohair and ombré yarns
  • Floral prints emerge from dark grounds with hazy and indistinct edges

Floral Print at Premiere Vision

Seduction Forum

Alongside the main trend forum, Premiere Vision always presents other forums & here we look at what was on offer within the Seduction Forum:

Trend Direction 1: Fancy & Fluid Fabrics

Fancy Jackets, Coats and Outerwear:

  • Airily cosy - puffed up woollens, fluffy mohair, with sparkle.
  • Light and voluminous boucles (tonal colour mixes and mélanges).
  • Glamorous wadding - down fabrics with over embroidery and metallic tape work – Aspesi Federico (Italy)
  • Boucles are becoming bigger and more pronounced. Large scale checks and houndstooth patterns
  • Mohair proliferates for lofty brushed checks with mélange colour mixes. Metallic threads in gold and silver add a ouch of glamour
  • Glamour furs - lustred and lustrous, dishevelled and clipped treatments. Shearling furs, both real and synthetic, ultra shaggy, some with matted appearance

Glamour Furs at Premiere Vision
Dresses and Tops:

  • Ultra soft velvets with long pile and shimmer effects
  • Fluid fabrics – very fine knits, matt and shiny impressions, stretch and crepe weaves. Sueded fine knits with subtle shimmer. Washed finishes enhance fluidity and drape
  • Syrupy satins, double faced options
  • Stretch silks – a hint of contemporary technicality with stretch and bi-stretch fineness. Fluid qualities and second-skin versions
  • Delicate wool – pointelles, heathered marls, hazy and matt effects
  • Wool voiles and bouclette wool gauzes – extremely fluid and lightweight with precious yarn blends
  • Glamorous and eccentric tweeds with metallic threads and colourful mottled and flecked mixes

Colourful tweeds at Premiere Vision

  • Velvets – fluid and skin-like velvets, supple pannes
  • Wools and silks are heavily textured with obvious structures. Wave and rippled surfaces
  • Double faced softened jacquards
  • Ornamental wool – mohair wool embroidery on black lace, Dentelles Andre Laude, (France). Laces with wool yarns and large scallops

Woolen Fabrics at Premiere Vision

Prints:

  • Urban scenic prints – City skyline and industrial landscape prints
  • Feather and skins prints, embroideries and jacquards. More feather than animal. Close-up and large scale images printed on velvet, satins and crinkle silk bases
  • Equestrian prints, particularly stirrups, bridles and equestrian paraphernalia. Very Hermes
  • Hand drawn prints – Softly sketched linear florals with bleeding colour effects on sheer silk bases. Soft hazy florals on textured silk cloqué. Flowers emerge from dark grounds
  • Orientalist prints – paisleys are back again. Mottled and digitally created backgrounds make then look newer. Some of the paisleys are very large, some mixed with florals and animal skin

Paisleys at Premiere Vision

  • Trick of the eye - digital photographic representation of a knitted or woven fabric on an unexpected sheer base
  • Printed checks on silks and satins (ref, Prada A/W 2010) hand painted and abstract in style. Camouflage checks in murky browns and greens. Modern art checks, black on black
  • Printed velvets with soft hazy florals
  • Cosmic digital prints on black grounds
  • Imaginary vegetal prints – inky and hazy, just discernable, atmospheric and ‘of the forest’. Nocturnal leaves and branches, digitally manipulated.

'Vegetal Prints' at Premiere Vision

Embellishment and Specials:

  • Precious abstraction – ultra light open meshes and nets, metallic tulle for embroidery. Very open ethereal and gossamer laces, over embroidered with metallic cording. Beautiful examples by J. Bracq and Sophie Hallette (France)
  • Beyond tradition – ultra light, ultra fine and ultra luxurious laces. Open net grounds with appliquéd beading. Cut and sewn effects to create delicate layering.
  • Opalescent embroidery – large scale florals, metallic yarns and pale gold highlights
  • 3D Blossom flowers, laser cut flowers stitched onto boucle wool ground, Jacob Schlapfer (Switz)

Unique Trims at Premiere Vision

  • Bridal laces in white and creams, feather motifs most evident
  • Folk tradition – oriental lace, Persian prints and Balkan style embroidery
  • Laser cutting and 3D embellishment for evening wear, impactful fabric manipulations
  • Trims in fur, boucle wool and sequins. Fringes, velvet, ribbon and wool, tassels and tapework
  • Precious blackening – black but only with interest. Clipped supple jacquards with lame foil threads. Boucle with silver lame. Coal-like metallics, mysterious lames, dusty jacquards, steel lace

Black Suede with Metallic Detailing at Premiere Vision

Relax and Distinction Forums

These forums have moved together for the first time at Premiere Vision due to the increasing casualisation of formal wear whilst the casual becomes more luxurious.

Relax Forum

Denims: more refined

  • Heavier weights with linen blends, often bonded with other fabrics
  • Ultra refined with uniform smooth surface and cloths suitable for urban wear
  • Deep indigos and black with subtle metallic threads
  • Colour strata – the reverse side also distinctive with colour woven stripes or layers created by controlled tearing to reveal reverse side pattern as if worn through
  • Suppleness and stretch

Denim

DenimDenims at Premiere Vision

Outerwear: solidity

  • Sportswear shearlings - relaxed fleeces and fur. Longer pile fleeces bonded with fur
  • Leathers – aged and split leathers, patinated, crushed, creased
  • Simulated imitation lambskin – the unreal looks so real
  • All-terrain skins, coated and bonded
  • Dense cottons, extra heavy, new ways with waxed treatments to give aged and patinated appearance for all-terrain wear

Jacket & Trousers:

  • Wax finishes for performance and multi-functional uses
  • Smooth plain weaves, compact moleskins, peachskin satins, washed gabardines
  • Wools and cottons for casual and city wear
  • Sport for the city – cotton double faces, aged and distressed
  • Corduroys with meltingly soft handle, lyocell and cupro for easy care
  • Powdered and whitened surfaces, bleached indigos
  • Colour finishing – washed out treatments give smoky and darkened effects

Sweatshirt & Overshirts:

  • Lumberjack checks – between a jacket and shirt weight, brushed and ultra soft. Wool and cotton flannelettes.
  • Microfibre fleeces
  • Knitted fleeces, knitted velvets and velours.
  • Cosy shearling knits
  • Folklore and fairisle stripe patterns for jumpers
  • Double faced jerseys

Shirts, Dresses & Tops: multi-functional

  • Cosy fine gauge knits
  • Lightweight and ultra supple suedes and skins
  • Double-faced knits with contrasting backs
  • Softened checks for shirtings. The fineness of emerised yarns and finishings for plaids and handkerchief checks. Colours enhanced by chine and ombré shadings. Colourful madras checks
  • Coloured plains – washed poplins, supple twills, batistes and satin weaves. Dark indigos and featherweight denim

Prints:

  • Camouflage – abstract florals and textural prints on all kind of bases, from satins through to jerseys and heavier weight compact cottons
  • Folklore paisley – batik meets paisley in indigos and blues
  • Flowers and flowerettes – small flowers, mini tie patterns on cotton lawns and lightweight brushes cottons. Dark inky flowers, lots of indigo
  • Bird and animal imagery

Prints at Premiere Vision

Distinction Forum

Coats: softness is key

  • Voluptuous wools, brushed mohair, tweedy softness, carded wool
  • Compressed, boiled and felted wools
  • Blanket fabrics, brushed, soft and colourful
  • Double-faced with contrasting backs
  • Chic waterproofs
  • Distinct twill weaves, rounded handle

Jackets & Coats:

  • Naturally imperfect – donegal tweeds. Blended fibres, wool, alpaca and linen
  • Graphic softness – twills and herringbone with volume
  • Woollens, ranging between broadcloths and compact flannels, robust yet blurry
  • Simple tennis stripes and windowpane checks

 Woolen Fabrics within Distinction Forum at Premiere Vision

  • Double roundness – double-faced and granite-like crepes with stretchy roundness. Bonded knits and wovens, compact yet supple
  • Granite-like knits
  • Washed tweeds and wool velours

Suits:

  • Featherweight softness – ultra-fine opaque wools, silks and cashmere, downy and fluid handle
  • Muffled gleam rendered through yarns and weaves
  • Bi-stretch fabrics to achieve ultra comfort. Natural and synthetic blends for best performance and comfort

Shirtings:

  • Intense dark plains and semi-plains
  • Colourful checks and handkerchief checks
  • City ginghams
  • Urban checks and stripes, optical micro patterns with stretch
  • Printed linings, tie motifs, small polka dots and shirting stripes

Style Focus: Relax and Distinction

All in Knit: menswear and womenswear
From coats to shirts, peacoats to dresses, from warm jumpers to second skins, KNIT IS BIG. Knits act as wovens by moving away from their traditional uses.

Gruffly Distinguished: menswear
Nature in its raw state, with wools, linens, alpacas and cottons. Imperfect and voluminous for coats and jackets. Irregular surfaces, coarse texture, rocky aspects but always soft to touch. Dark and silky shirtings in dark purples and navy

Thwarting Rigour: menswear
Formality has fluidity, austere yet supple tailoring. Coat fabrics are soft and supple, carded wools and lightweight worsteds. Suits are fluid and soft. Shirts are graphic by way of complex ginghams and checks that aren’t as simple as they look

Effortlessly Eco: menswear
It’s all about discretion. Fabrics appear normal but are made from organic or recycled fibres, non-harmful finishings and clean natural dyes. The quest is for sustainable and eco-friendly production for every item in the wardrobe.

Luminously Casual: menswear and womenswear
Cosy and protective sportswear with cleaner, powdery finishes. Light-coloured felts, substantial cottons, thick fleece, aged split leathers, bleached out denims, raw embroideries and needle punchings. For women, chine lace and non-delicate lace guipure
 

Pulsation Forum

Sport, technical and performance. Sports moves ever closer to fashion

Sports Tech

Multifunctional Performance: Compact surfaces, double-faced knits and wovens. Many fabrics boast several properties, that of climate control, stretch, breathability, water repellency, waterproof and windproofing. Strong colour contrasts for double faced and multi-layered fabrics
NB. The Japanese, Korean and Taiwanese exhibitors were very dominant in this area, such as Young (Korea) and Seirin (Japan)

Urban Sports: More city-type fabrics getting the performance treatment. Wool inherently imparts performance qualities but is given added benefits with water repellent finishes, double-faced options, bonded backings, thermal properties, wadded and felted finishes

High Protection: High- resistant fibres, knitted or woven, retain suppleness and boast indestructibility. High resistance finishes also provide stain resistance, fast drying qualities with added membrane or coating

Weightless Windproof: New windproof fabrics are ultra fine, very light and opaque for technical sportswear

Thermal: Thermal knits range from the very fine gauge through to weightless double-faced fabrics with additional properties that include fast-drying, climatic and anti-bacterial

Performance for Everyday

Fantasy: City fabrics are given performance qualities

Waxed and Rubbery Coatings: This is a growing technical feature for many performance fabrics. The ‘Barbour’ jacket is elevated. Waxing goes from the finely waxed which imparts a sheen and shine on lightweight and featherweight synthetics through to silicone coatings on leather and leatherette. There is a strong fashion/sports element, pearlised and satinised coatings impart an incredible lustre to colours and digital prints add another dimension. Prints can provide a quirky fashion look, for example a photographic printed tweed pattern has an unexpected novelty on a featherweight windproof fabric

Angel Skin Suppleness: Sports and fashion meet in new peach skin finishes. Parachute fabrics get the double-faced treatment, with pearlised or peach skins bonded on the reverse. Added properties include waterproofing and responsible production

Fast Dry from Head to Toe: 
There is a growing demand for fast-dry finishes on casual and loungewear fabrics, form polo shirts to denim

Lingerie: Ultra-fine stretch technical qualities continue to be important for performance and comfort. Stretch developments in embroidery allow for better fit and technical performance

Recycled: Eco fabrics are particularly important in this sector, especially recycled polyesters and polyamides blended with natural fibres, particularly cotton
 

Summary of the Strongest Key Fabrics from Across The Forums

  • Double-faced and multi-layered fabric combinations
  • Trompe-l’oeil prints – digital close-ups and pattern trickery
  • Blurred and hazy vegetal prints emerging from dark mysterious backgrounds
  • Soft knits are huge for the Autumn Winter season, grown out of a desire for handcrafted skills, softness and comfort. Voluminous and 3D knits take centre stage in fashion terms. Technical work on fineness of fibres and handle with processes such as enzyme washing has rendered fibres ultra soft. This has enabled yarns that are thick but lighter to wear.
  • Wool is the dominant fibre, especially Mohair, cashmere and alpaca. Wool appears even in denim! (ref: Indiwool collection by Tavex)
  • Cottons must be sophisticated, blended with wool or silk with flannel aspects
  • Yarn constructions are more distinct and visible
  • Soft, lofty and supple knits and wovens – extremes of weight from an ultra- light wool voile to a new luxury demonstrated by heavier rounded  double faced fabric
  • Refined denims – play with new blends and finishings for greater suppleness and refinement for ‘any-wear’ and ready-to-wear. Innovative dyeing techniques produce deeper inky indigos.
  • Dense and compact suitings with flexibility and drape
  • Finishes – so many different types of finishings from wax coatings through to carded, felted, sueded and brushed. The most luxury of fabrics are washed to give an altered appearance
  • Lace - woolly and crochet, chunky and soft or ethereal and gossamer fine
  • Pile and velvet, especially long pile lengths and fake furs and shearlings
  • Metallic shimmers and finishes, iridescence in silks, lace and fine knits
  • Sequins dominated on embroidery and jacquard knits


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