Autumn Winter 2011-12 Trend Direction from Interfiliere
One of the most important shows in the calendar for the lingerie sector, the fabric & accessories fair Interfiliere took place in Paris recently, and as always it was adjacent to the lingerie & swim product show Mode City.
The shows organisers at Interfiliere recognised that a recession often damages both the brand & retailer, as well as the consumer's spending power, but they felt also that lingerie was also bucking the trend as it becomes 'ever-more opulent, richly decorated and lavishly ornamented'.
The motive is that when times are difficult it is best to restore our sense of 'self-esteem, individuality, sense of pleasure' to make us feel better, but also have the desire to start purchasing lingerie.
In Europe last year, the number of pregnancies increased significantly, an expression not only of sexuality – and seduction – but also of peoples’ desire to determine their own destiny. In Asia, lingerie and chocolate – two prime sources of pleasure – are bestsellers. And what might be called the ‘striptease spirit’, as personified by the uninhibited fantasy of Dita Von Teese’, is rejuvenating the cabarets and music halls… In a completely different direction, renewed interest in the home and family pleasures is now sparking a new wave of loungewear’.
To Summarise: Emotion and especially sensual seduction are more than ever blue-chip stocks to be followed. It can never be said too often: when everything is expensive, the small pleasures do not have a price.
Market Overview & Direction
The lingerie market, which includes hosiery, has withstood the sharp declines that have been experienced in other retail sectors during the recession. Many women have viewed lingerie as a relatively inexpensive ‘pick-me-up’ at a time when the recession was biting into other areas of spending. The hosiery market has been particularly buoyant, women of all ages have rediscovered the fashion potential of tights and leggings and brands have reacted with strong fashion looks and innovation.
The Trend Boutique particularly liked the hosiery company Bebaroque whose amazing, embellished tights we felt really represented how buoyant the market was due to the premium placing both on a design & market level.
Hosiery by Bebaroque
Manufacturers have also used technological development to increase the comfort and effectiveness of shapewear, which has become a major sales driver for the sector. Multi-functionality remains a key driver for bras. Online retailing is proving successful adding to an already competitive marketplace.
The lingerie market is becoming more polarised with consumers moving both up towards luxury and down to value. Fit and quality are as important to them as fashion and style and lingerie brands are working to meet this demand with a further focus on plus sizes, shapewear and corsetry. The media continues to influence the consumer with TV programmes such as ‘How to Look Good Naked’ with Gok Wan. This has increased the knowledge and awareness of the consumer who is far more informed than ever before.
Online retailing has proved successful and women are increasingly more confident to buy on-line; many women even prefer to once they know what brands fit them well. There is a continued passion for vintage glamour and this will be a key driver for both functionality and fashion. The American series ‘Mad Men’ has perpetuated the hourglass silhouette.
General Trend Forum at Interfiliere
Key Focus of Forum:
The mood of the forum was all about luxury and sensuality. The polarisation of the market is driving the luxury sector to new heights and providing new opportunities. The focus is on technical fabric innovation to meet this shifting market direction. Lace is dominant, with ever softer and more luxurious handles. Graphic imagery is the strongest direction for prints. Embroidery is extremely refined with greater stretch properties.
General Forum at Interfiliere
A feel of dandy chic. Tailoring influences are pushing the preppy look with tie, foulard and caviar motifs. Navy’s and blacks with some surface or finish with give added drama and sophistication. Classic with a twist.
The future’s all in the mix. Fibre mixes are key, noble yarns such as angora, cashmere and silk blended with cotton, wool and viscose, adding a touch of luxury to everyday fabrics.
Colour Direction at Interfiliere
From the colour direction trends being shown at Interfiliere, The Trend Boutique have put together a series of colour harmonies to show you how our Autumn Winter 2011-12 colours may be interpreted for the lingerie & swimwear market.
- Powdered tones used with pretty accents for the most sophisticated and precious materials, especially silks. Black and ink tones featured (refer to ‘Soulages’ report by The Trend Boutique 1/3/10).
- Also in the running are colours direct from streetwear: lots of blues but also ochre’s and oranges.
- Flesh tones more edgy and more yellow toned than previously
Greens including tones of Chinese jade
- Blues, marine and denim shades
Earth tones, yellows, honey, ginger, poppy red. These colours are dominant going forward to Spring Summer 2012
- Prune, damson and synthetic pinks
The 'Evolution' Guide to Trends for Autumn Winter 2011-12
One of the highlights of the Interfiliere shows is obviously the various presentations & forums held by the leading forecasting agencies such as Carlin International, Peclers Paris, Nelly Rodi & Promostyl. Added to this list of prestigious agencies is the lingerie specialists Concepts Paris, who in conjunction with the Eurovet fashion team came up with four trend directions they felt were strong for Autumn Winter 2011-12.
The Trend Boutique have taken a look at these trends & interpreted them using brands & designers that we felt fitted these themes, plus also linked them back to our overall 'Guides to the Season' to make it easier for you as students & graduates to understand & reference the various different directions.
Trend Direction 1: Raw Romance
The key points for this first trend direction were:
- Art & Nature.
- Rustic & Random.
'Raw Romance' is also a strong theme for loungewear & nightwear.
The Trend Boutique chose new lingerie label Shell Belle Couture lingerie that uses vintage fabrics & trims and soft feminine shapes as a perfect reflection of the natural colours with more of a faded & yellow tone seen in this theme. This softly seductive nightwear & loungewear range has a feminine touch created by the antique finishes, and is not over complicated or structured allowing the sheer, delicate fabrics to take centre stage.
Shell Belle Couture Lingerie Spring Summer 2011 Collection
Key directions within this theme were:
- Natural colours and vintaged yellows
- Geometric laces with curve and wave patterning
Buttery yellow laces and soft cotton guipure
Gold and bronze metallic highlights for prints, embroideries and laces
Olive green and buttery yellow combinations
Very light sketchy abstract embroideries
Linear and line drawings for prints and embroideries
Soft aqua’s and blues
Ultra fine denim jerseys
Tapework crochet laces
Ultra soft jersey ribs – Willi Hermann
Open wool crochet knits in soft grey tones
Tonal grey rose prints on satin base
Cotton embroideries on voile
Cotton eyelash lace, fine black stitched outline defining flower motifs
Skintone fine gauge knits with subtle sparkle – Willi Hermann and Liebaert
Very sheer and fine’ antique’ laces edges in varying widths
Skintones - more ‘antiqued’ and yellow toned
Fabric laces – Chanty
Woven satins with antiqued finishes
Finest one-on-one rib – Hubert Tricot
Vintaged satin ribbons
Matt and shine ruched elastics in antique cream and black (Cheynet)
Luxury takes a stroll in the footsteps of Karl Lagerfeld and John Galliano… All the allure of glamour of course, but full of humour and audacity, inspired by resolutely individualistic remixes of past crafts, with treasures from the attic and grandma’s handicraft skills. Trendy luxury with a fresh spirit, energetic and ‘ageless’ style.
The Trend Boutique liked the styling & direction of these fun lingerie pieces by Huit that capture the feel & spirit of the 'Hilarious' theme.
Betty Full Cup Bra & Wispy Knickers by Huit Lingerie
Key directions within this theme were:
- Sweet florals on satin grounds
- Fine gauge synthetics
- Bright fresh colours, bright violet and rose
- Impactful decoration
- Frills and florals, think Meissen dolls
- Cut-outs and placements
- Country plaids and stripes
- Mixed elements, grandma’s attic
Also for this theme take a look at contemporary lace – concept garments displayed a young all-over lace by Chanty. A soft hand feel ‘helanka’ look lace with higher elastomere creates a strong modulus for multi-functioning garments for added smoothing effect
Trend Direction 3: Dare to Explore
Maximalism reminiscent of the old curiosity shop as well as today’s concept shops such as Merci in Paris and Anthropology in New York and London. The atmosphere conjures up images of the Silk Route, the riches of all the cultures of the world. Indian embroideries mix with African jacquards, taffetas are decorated with semi-precious stones and stretch satin are everywhere… And, not to forget, the best of current masculine chic and graphics, echoes of the eccentric style of the American Iris Apfel.
The Trend Boutique chose this collection by lingerie label Fantasie because of its rich berry tones, luxurious feel & nod to Fifties styling.
- Purples, blues, berry reds and dark olive
- Aqua’s, marines and navies
- Soft baroque
- Geometric rhythmic patterns, 1950’s inspired
- New generation flocked fabrics – Piave Maitex
- Ultra fine gauge sparkle knits
- Gossamer meshes with metallic shimmer
- Plasticized printed meshes
- Black/bronze combinations for laces
- Fabric laces
- Embroidered motifs
- Jacquard knits
- Floral satin jacquards, black and navy combinations
- Large scale broderie meshes
- Plum velvets and thermal knits
- Printed check velour
- Chinzed meshes – Tissages Perrin
- Subtle sheen and pearlised finishes
- Oriental jacquards
- Preppy prints and menswear references
- Masculine pinstripes and tailoring references
- Flocked meshes
- Organic black embroideries and laces
- Micro pleating
- Wave and geometric patterning
- Lightweight sheer synthetics
- Open and airy lace trims
- Black beaded lace with 3D embroidery – Solstiss
- Cired guipure, jet crystal beading
- Geometric black laces with silver highlights
- Foil printed jersey
- Cotton embroideries with metallic shimmer
- Deep chevron edge designs for lace and embroidery
- Sheer meshes and laces
- Look to new skills for decoration, cut-out appliqué with overstitched detail
- Linear laces with the appearance with sewn together ribbons
- Vintaged eyelash laces
- Metallic flocking
- Deco roses
- Light embroideries, lace–like
- Embossed knits, matt and shine
- Masculine cravat and tie motifs
- Fairy whites, feathered decoration
- Decoration is jewellery; statement broaches, diamante droplets, antiqued crystal - see images below
Beach Innovation Forum at Interfiliere
- Camouflage – black and white, lace and animal patterning, animal and graphic florals
- Metallic highlights
- 1970’s colouring, honey, orange, brown, caramel
- Ikat print effects
- Leather look plains with metallic finish
- Highly plasticised finishes with extreme wet-look
- Subtle glitter and shimmer finishes
- Metallic ring clasps, tarnished, bronze and gold finishes
- One-piece white swimsuits in lightweight fabric from Liebaert. Inkjet printed placement design depicting a hand drawn fine linear pen drawing with wash of colour, inspired by Jean Cocteau.
Trend Direction 2: Fantasia
Zoomed in nature, fantasy and kaleidoscopic prints.
- Digital printed and engineered designs to pattern pieces
- Engineered scenic placements prints – Moda Pierre
- Holographic finishes
- Metallic and pearlised finishes
- Digitally printed jersey marls for ready to wear
- Printed velour for ready to wear
- Large scale open black meshes
- Latex appearance – Lior
- Close up patterns, revealing ripples and wave patterns
Graphical Sport – concept garments by Concepts Paris and Hong Kong Polytechnic University
- Three graphic and sporty swimsuits combining function with seduction. All garments were bonded using Eurojersey Sensitive fabric, leaving edges raw and colour blocking of printed and plain fabrics with seaming that is both visual and functional.
Trend Direction 3: Queen of Hearts
- Orange and red hues very dominant
- Textured knits and pleated effects
- Graphic florals
- Pinks, cerise’s and corals
- Lace for swimwear
- Jewelled decoration
- 1950’s seersucker, multicoloured checks
- Black and gold foil printed geometrics
- Spots and dogtooth in blacks/silver
- Laser cut stretch satin
- Masculine micro geometrics and textures in silvers and greys
- 3D pleated knitted fabrics in self-colours
- Children’s swimsuits illustrated the benefits of digital inkjet printing methods by achieving a layered look of different prints without actual sewing. The layered elements were printed as one design engineered to a swimsuit shape.
- The desirability for modern lightweight shapewear continues and retro construction is still important
- There are several new power meshes (Piave Maitex) that are adding to the possibilities for a modern interpretation
- Nude colours have worked well, especially for the retro look. The next direction must be for more coloured shapewear
- Woven satins are also important (Elastic GMBH)
- Lace is becoming even more lightweight
- On Gossamer, moulded cup and lightweight with beautiful finishing
- Very flat elastics, satin finish
- Ultra light crepe weaves and handkerchief cottons
- The importance of the slip nightdress
Delicate Fabrics at Interfiliere
- Guipure and lace incrustations
- Laser cutting and lamination
- New mouldable embroideries
- Laces have clean lines and edges
- Seam emphasis is the feature
- Larger scale imagery for lace and embroidery, going forward for 2012 too
- Ornamental back details
- The construction forms the design
- No frills design, minimal, functional and sexy
- Strong direction for hosiery (Eiffel Tower motif on stocking by JPGaultier)
- Geometric prints
- Men’s cravat patterns
- Polka dots
- Importance of digital printing
- Preppy menswear, jacquard and printed elastic developments make men’s underwear look new and give a fashion element
- Focus on the trims and elastics
- 3D floral appliqués
- Fan pleating
- Bird motif
- Lightweight elastics, narrow and wide
- Vintaged satin
- Jewelled and beaded
- Fine lace, clean edges and open loops
- Young in spirit
- 3D decoration
- Nostalgic and sexy country references
- Ruffled and ruched
- White and textural frou frou
- 3D lace by Tian Hai using very light yarns
- Classic sleepwear gets reworked in newer proportions
- Japanese brand called Gelato Pique has a huge following in Japan and uses new proportions
- Juicy Couture sleepwear is highly successful, focusing on details and coordinating prints
- Anthropology and Oysho also work the sleepwear and lingerie combination very successfully
- Knitwear pieces growing in importance but need to be beautiful handle
- Focus on bottoms, low crotch and fluid
- Knitted camisoles, Hanro
- Rib knits and cashmere blends
- Organic dyed cottons
- Chunky laces
- The importance of the extended beachwear wardrobe to skirts and kaftans
- Digitally printed placements and border designs
- Fragile naturals
- Nudes, more antique direction (yellow toned)
- Olive greens and mustard especially work well for satins and fine laces
- Rusts and browns for woven satins. Earth tones continue for spring/summer 2012
- Floral tones, blue based pinks and purples
- Denim blues
Fabric Developments and Innovations
The focus is on blends, silk, angora, cashmere with cotton wool and viscose. Everyday luxury is the benchmark, supported by fine gauge and ultra-soft handles. Fabric suppliers are constantly adding new lighter weights to meet the demand for a modern interpretation:
- Be Be Cotton, has developed a range of natural dyes of plant and animal origin suitable for organic cottons, recycled polyesters as well as conventional cottons.
- Modal, polyester and polyamide blends using natural dyes
- Desseilles offer larger widths of jacquard lace, soft and flexible laces and innovation to imitate a crocheted Bruges lace
- Green touch within the general forum a table displayed green fabrics by supplier. Recycled polyester - its possibilities to recycle at every stage in the production process promotes this as the green fibre of the future as seen at Asahi Kasei Roica, Asahi Kasei Cupro and Louis Vuidon
- Julius Boos shows new fabric development using kapok
- Laces, lots of technical development in the lace sector, as below
Noyon have further developed their semi-finished shapewear laces to offer 2 new styles of high-waisted briefs. They are also offering ‘cosmetological’ featuring active ingredients such as aloe vera. There are also silk laces and an organic cotton line
Eurojersey have new sensitive sheer, soft fluid with second skin properties and eco credentials
- Digital printing becoming ever more important in the industry especially as it is getting increasingly difficult for small businesses and new designers to meet minimum order requirements and this technology allows for small runs and greater flexibility and adaptability
- Soulis-Kuehnis one of the first suppliers to print on embroidery, the Greek company has launched a major new innovation; digital printing on tulle. This technique gives the appearance of fine embroidery
- Maglificio Ripa has developed a new, extremely fine and very light collection of 44-gauge jacquards for swimwear