Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report

on 11/10/11

Each season The Trend Boutique aim to provide a series of in-depth product trend reports to accompany the Colour Reports & the 'Guides to the Season', for Autumn Winter 2012-13 we will be covering fashion, textiles, architecture, interiors & furniture, and accessories & footwear.
Concentrating on a comprehensive mix of designer collections & up-&-coming labels this report aims to provide all the key reference points for the season, as well as inspiration & direction for each theme featured within The Trend Boutique's 'Guide to the Season'.
Providing a thorough overview from general direction & themes to overall shape & detailing, however although we show clear indication of how we are beginning to see each theme develop, we feel it is important to ensure that the direction provided is open enough for each student or graduate to create their own interpretation.
Covering design & trend influences across the four themes identified by The Trend Boutique for Autumn Winter 2012-13 - Fragility, Sharp, Radical & Remote, here we see over 60+ trend boards and weblinks & references within this comprehensive report.  

Fragility Trend Direction for Fashion

The 'Fragility' trend direction follows on perfectly from both the 'Harvest' and 'Senses' themes from last season, as it builds upon the concept of a finite life and combines with the fascination with the skin & the inner workings of the body. This direction is all about the 'Fragility' between life & death and the beauty that manifests itself throughout.  

Colour: A monochrome palette is warmed with rich conker & tan browns and fragile whisps of grey. Single colours are used for each garment with interest being added through strong use of texture from rustic felts to exagerated furs. 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Trend Report - Fashion
Images & Collection by Damir Doma

Mourning: Demure 'sunday-best' styling creates an ideal interpretation of the 'mourning' direction within the Fragility theme. Covering up from top-to-toe gives a sense of reverence, with full 'A' line skirts & dresses and high collared, puffed or leg of mutton sleeved blouses. Whilst spencer & double breasted 1920's shawl jackets in rich tweed & heavy plain weave fabrics create a sombre vintage feel. 

Images & Collection by Giles

Dark Overtones: Gothic references provide more of an urban edge for womenswear with simple lines & the darkest of palettes. Blocks of contrast textures, such as leathers, pvc, and lace provides the update for this tone on tone styling. For menswear dark leathers create the edge whilst black & the richest of browns are blended in smudge, overcoloured, and camouflage like effects. 

Images & Collection by Mandy Coon

Left: Images & Collection by Trussardi, Courtesy of Pitti Imagine Right Images & Collection by Asger Juel Larsen

Taxidermy: For Autumn Winter 2012-13 taxidermy is not only used for headpieces & dramatic effect, but actually as a main focal point & part of the actual garment. Delicate, as they are disturbing this reference has been building over the last few seasons, for a more wearable option these dead animals can be translated into print direction & used for colour references.

'Ritual Memories' by Iwajla Klinke

Left: Images & Collection by Asger Juel Larsen Right: Images & Collection by Julia deVille

Urban: Streetwear gains a darker & more directional tone through the use of strong macabre graphics and new silhouettes of narrow fit sweats & deep-cuffed leggings teamed with boxy, square tees and jackets. We also see the unexpected introduction of feminine fabrics into this ultra-masculine genre, such as lace & lurex worn in panels or dark overlays. 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Trend Report - Fashion
Images & Collection by Daniel Palillo x God's Prey

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Trend Report - Fashion
Images & Collection by Astrid Andersen 

Key Fabric Direction for Fragility

For the 'Fragility' theme The Trend Boutique has identified a number of key fabric trends for fashion from crepe for suiting, leathers & jersey, glossy sequin & sheer voiles, through to the introduction of taxidermy & feathers into the essence of the jacket, dress or skirt. Of particular interest is the use of complex fringing & cording crocheted and plaited to create the dramatic mainstay of the garment. In addition, the further development of feminine fabrics in menswear including lurex & lace from the high-end luxury through to urban streetwear.

Images & Collection by Eleanor Amoroso

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Fragility
Images & Collection by Sayaka Kamakura

Key Silhouettes & Shape Details for Fragility

Jackets: Square & boxy with oversized 'boyfriend' styling with rever collars & teddy-boy influences. Jackets are either long line & double breasted or single breasted & cropped, definite men's suiting references are seen throughout womenswear. Shoulder pads & clean lines give jackets a puritanical look especially when worn with the essential full length 'A' line skirts. 

Left: Images & Collection by Noir Right: Images & Collection by Damir Doma

Images & Collection by Damir Doma

Dresses: Simple, figure-hugging lycra dresses form the basis of one of the key looks for this theme, with interest being added through panels of texture reminiscent of seer-sucker fabrics or created through the knit patterns. Alternative & more austere directions are offered through the all-important modest 'puritan' dress with high necklines, long-sleeves and below the knee styling, whilst simple shift dresses are given a dark makeover in ebony blacks with deep 'v ' openings.

Left: Images & Collection by Antonio Berardi Right: Ekaterina Kukhareva

Left: Images & Collection by Issever Bahri  Right: Images & Collection by Preen

Bodices: Bodices are seen as small, precise additions rather than the previous season's harsher corsetry & fetishwear. Instead of being restricting, this season bodices provide a delicate point of interest rather like a brooch or chest piece being pinned in place, with intricate pleating, featherwork or cording providing a fragile edge.

Left: Collection & Images by Noir Right: 'Grace' feather bra by Myla

Trousers & Knitwear: Carefully laddered knits provide the basis for both tops & trousers for 'Fragility' providing both an edginess & delicate quality at the same time. Panels of shredded knits provide interest whilst preserving modesty, whilst ribs need to be deep & frayed to create a very worn look. 

Left: Collection & Images by Issever Bahri Right: Collection & Images by Markus Lupfer

Sharp Trend Direction for Fashion

This direction is aimed very much at the 'New Millenials' a group of young people that are witty, well-educated, and with real ambition, however due to the circumstances that surround them realise that they have to get 'sharper, smarter, and more intelligent' to get ahead. This theme therefore juxtaposes all that they stand for with this new 'Sharp' way of dressing that they hope will get them noticed & most importantly hired. 

Colour: Bold, bright colours make a statement for 'Sharp'. A real richness & depth of colour runs throughout and colour clashes & colour blocking are carried out in a less garish way, but still have a sense of power & confidence about them. 

Left: Images & Collection by Preen Centre: Images & Collection by Cacharel Right: Images & Collection by Emilo de la Morena

Post Modern Influence: One of the most important & influential exhibitions 'Post-Modernism, Style & Subversion 1970-1990' takes place at the V&A and creates a strong impact on this theme. Providing wit & humour to this direction, as well as a colourful graphical style and a new take on colour blocking. 

Images & Collection by Emilio de la Morena

Images & Collection by Hixsept

Colour Blocking: For Autumn Winter 2012-13 colour blocking is updated in a new palette & introduced into menswear. Without the garish clashes of previous season, this direction still uses strong colours to create a bold statement.

Collection & Images by Mjolk

Young, Quirky Accessories: Despite having to grow up fast, this age group still wants to retain their identity by adding quirky touches to more formal suiting & workwear with accessories becoming key for the 'Sharp' theme. From old school trainers to beanie hats, this clash of styles provides the perfect dress up or down approach. 

Images & Collection by Mjolk

Images & Collection by Cacharel

Strong Modern Tailoring: With the current crop of menswear tailors making their mark from E Tautz, A Sauvage to Claire Malcolm at Hardy Amies clever cuts are at the heart of the ‘Sharp’ theme. The re-emergence of traditional techniques & bespoke tailoring sensibilities has been happening for a few seasons now; however for Autumn Winter 2012-13 the difference is that there is a much more modern edge with quirky touches.

Left: Collection & Images by Six Lee Right: Collection & Images by Mjolk

Key Fabric Direction: Traditional checks, pinstripes & tweeds are given a ‘cut & sew’ effect through the use of clever & complicated patchwork & panelling. By the juxtaposition of traditional fabrics seen in ultrafine weights with modern cuts & silhouettes this then gives everything a more futuristic, directional feel. 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Sharp
Images & Collection by Six Lee

Key Silhouettes & Shape Detail for Sharp

Jackets & Coats: Outerwear sees the use of duffel coats & jackets are single breasted with one or two button fastenings to keep the simple ‘Sharp’ lines incorporating contrast panels. Whilst bomber & Harrington jackets are seen as a more casual alternative, but retain their ‘Sharp’ qualities through the use of high-shine fabrics & dense colours. 

Autumn Winter Trend Report - Sharp
Image & Collection by Mathew Miller 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Sharp
Left: Image & Collection by Agi & Sam Right: Image & Collection by Hien Le

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Sharp
Images & Collection by Mjolk

Dresses & Skirts: Exaggerated silhouettes are created through tulip & knee-length pencil skirts in an ultra-sharp colour palette and high sheen satins. Cocooning effects are developed through simple shift dresses that have a looser, yet still flattering fit, whilst ‘puffa’ style padding also continues this direction.

Images & Collection by Jil Sander

Shirting: Crisp, clean shirting gives a ‘back to school’ styling for mens & womenswear for Autumn Winter 2012-13. Whether with a peter pan, spread or pinned collar, hidden fastenings or contrast plackets the important aspect is that we are seeing the return of the simple white shirt. 

Left: Collection & Images by Mjolk Right: Collection & Images by Hien Le

Left: Image & Collection by Right: Image & Collection by Bruuns Bazaar

Knitwear: Fully-fashioned jacquard or purl knits are given a new twist by subverting traditional patterns. The curved padded shoulder is an important silhouette & adds a new focal point especially when combined with a heavier gauge yarn & exaggerated fully fashioning stitch marks. Other important touches are a primary colour palette in a single bright tone or contrasted with navy or black. 

Left: Image & Collection by Jil Sander Top & Bottom Right: Images & Collection by Minimarket

Trousers: For menswear we see trousers cut just above (or on) the ankle and turn-ups to give them a geeky schoolboy feel. Alternatively we see the introduction of sport & tailoring hybrids with the use of toggles & fastenings, whilst 2 different fabrics or colourways and two-tone fabrics also give a younger twist on fitted trousers.  In womenswear, we see a return to an ultra slim fit with ¾ length and ankle grazing cigarette pants in heavy tweeds & woollen felts. 

Images & Collection by Mjolk

Images & Collection by Agi & Sam

Radical Trend Direction for Fashion

As a wave of radicalism spreads across the world, fashion has always relished its role in breaking the rules & pushing the boundaries. This is taken to a whole new level with the road having already paved by the likes of Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj and Rihanna bringing the outlandish into the mainstream.  For Autumn Winter 2012-13 we see the anything goes mantra being explored through a colour clashing, do-it-yourself, mix of sportswear, tailoring & outerwear.

Colours: An ultra-bright, super-clash colour palette is essential for this theme, however we enjoy it most when combined with a black or white monochrome contrast or graphic feel. With fluorescent pastels and primaries the other interesting aspect is that clashing colours are used across all materials & shapes from modern sportswear to luxurious looking fake furs.

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Bernhard Willhelm

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Pam Hogg

Mishmash: One of the most important directions in this theme is the creation of brand new silhouettes & direction through the mixing & matching of contrasting fabrics & actual garment shapes & products – so what starts out as a denim jacket finishes as a trench coat or a knitted fabric is felted into a woven.

This ‘Radical’ new approach is not just seen in streetwear, but also couture and adds a whole new dimension where an expensive tweed jacket may have knit or quilted sleeves, knitwear has secondary printing and rubber & vinyls are added to wovens. We also see the introduction of heavy patchworking & finging that rather than used in embellishment forms the mainstay of the garment from top to toe.

Image & Collection by Phenomenon

Images & Collection by Jenny Postle

Statement Knits: Knitwear & sweats are slashed to create impact and overlaid with statement & subversive prints to add a witty take. The use of mohair & fancy yarns is also an important direction especially when seen in bright clashing colours, twisted or knitted into unexpected structures and complete head to toe coverings.

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Walter Van Beirendonck

Revolution: The ‘Radical’ theme continues as we get ready to protest by covering our faces in hooded jackets & the balaclava becomes a staple item. With ‘looter’ aesthetics including the return of the shell suit updated through a mix & match approach & overblown drawstring detailing, plus an aggressive dark edge is created through tone-on-tone blacks, and leathers combined with heavy molten fabrics.

Images & Collection by Asger Juel Larsen

Key Fabric Direction: A ‘Radical’ sense of contrast is created through the use of mix & match fabrics including vinyls & leathers with strong geometrics & digital prints. We also see the generation of new hybrid fabrics that switch techniques mid-flow such as felted wovens & knits and complicated slub effects.

Images & Collection by Shaun Samson

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Flik Hall

Key Silhouettes & Shape Details for Radical

Coats & JacketsHeavy winter coats are a key ingredient in the ‘Radical’ theme with longer length trench & overcoat or puffa jacket silhouettes all featuring strongly and giving this direction its harder edge. Already mentioned is the importance of the mix & match hybrids which come into their own in section, the essential trench coat is cleverly combined with puffa, quilted, denim or army style jackets, as well as using contrasting fabrics such as leather & vinyls. For womenswear we see a softer, yet equally ‘Radical’ approach with the emphasis on directional tailoring to do the same job.

Left & Right: Images & Collection by Phenomenon 

Left & Right: Images & Collection by Phenomenon 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Comme Des Garcons 

Images & Collection by T.lilpop

Dresses & Skirts: An eclectic approach to womenswear is created through bold patchwork effects in mismatched fabrics and a haphazard use of haberdashery staples & trims. Draping, rouching & gathers all feature to continue that eclectic mishmash effect. 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Comme Des Garcons 

Knitwear: A multitude of approaches are taken for knitwear to further develop that random & eclectic feel, from the D-I-Y aesthetic of punk inspired mohair knits to fancy yarns being used to create texture & effect on wovens & suiting. This theme is all about loose & open stitches in fluffy & textured yarns and anything goes embellishments whether created through a combination of or individual pieces of crochet, embroidery and hand knits. 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Walter Van Beirendonck

Trousers & Shorts: For womenswear trousers are cropped, different lengths and also feature twists & ties to give that irregular feel whilst shorts are bib-fronted, ruffled, gym-style and made from boiled, felted & textured fabrics to give an austere take.

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Radical
Images & Collection by Comme Des Garcons 

Remote Trend Direction for Fashion

The absolute opposite to ‘Radical’ this theme takes a more gentle approach to the current worldwide issues by taking flight & creating a sense of escapism. ‘Remote’ follows on perfectly from the ‘Folk theme of the previous winter by seeking out further solitude and even softer muted tones. With the most delicate of palettes and an embracing of the natural elements we see this interpreted into the softest of themes with a slightly more rugged menswear direction. 

Colours: The lightest of ‘nudes’ and sheer tones are given a watery direction through flecks of ethereal blue or stormy hues.  Inspired by ‘Remote’ landscapes and nature this is a true wintery palette with cool tones running throughout.

Left: Images & Collection by Matthew Williamson Right: Image & Collection by Marcus Lupfer

Taking Flight: Birds & the concept of flight continue to be a great source of reference, however rather than just offering quirky print direction, it is the feather & down that is of more interest from the patterns & movement created whilst flying to the warmth & resilience they provide to the elements. For women it is the feathers themselves that provide a gentle & beautiful interest for eveningwear from marabou to ostrich.

Left: Images & Collection by Borre Akkersdijk Right: Image & Collection by 

Images & Collection by Katy Saunders

Fragile Touches: Despite being an Autumn Winter theme we see the lightest of touches & glimpses of bare flesh for womenswear through delicate laces & laddered open knits. Always in the softest of colour palettes & teamed with winter knitted accessories to create a cocooning feel.  

Left: Image & Collection by Noir Right: Image & Collection by Anna October

Urban Remote: Streetwear provides the perfect interpretation of the 'Urban Remote' direction as we put our hood up to shut out the outside world & to protect us from the elements. Fur-lined hood jackets, cagouls and parkas become the staple worn with rolled up jeans & rugged footwear, whilst for womenswear they are seen with tactile, ultra thick leggings. 

Images & Collection by SILAS

Left: Image & Collection by Topshop Right: Image & Collection by Noir

Key Fabric Direction for Remote 

Alongside the soft cocooning fabrics associated with 'Remote' we also see the important use of twills, tweeds and denims combined with waterproof coatings to create complex & rugged fabrics that protect from the elements. Using the latest waterproofing technology, we see this in all over coverage or in patchwork panels. Other directions that reflect the 'Remote' theme also includes the use of dip & ombre dye techniques that are reflective of the weather and when combined with pleating & movement are reminscent of birds feathers.

Images & Collection by Norwegian Rain

Images  Collection by Kajsa Skoglund

Key Silhouettes & Shape for Remote 

Coats & Jackets: As expected coats & jacket are an essential silhouette for 'Remote' to protect us from the elements. From cagouls & waterproof jackets with a polar expedition styling to a more urban look with large-scaled fur-lined hoods for menswear coats & jackets are robust & industrial looking. Patchwork panelling in either rugged denims, waterproof vinyls or oilskin are also key for jackets whilst for a softer more Scandinavian feel we also see long line macs & raincoats with simple clean lines and hidden fastenings. 

For womenswear we see hooded parkas again fur-lined & exaggerated and knitted or felted wool coats with fake fur wraps across the shoulders or collars to create a soft, but dramatic effect. 

Images & Collection by Herik Viskov

Images & Collection by t.lilpop

Left: Image & Collection by Preen Right: Image & Collection by Matthew Williamson

Images & Collection by Mjolk

Dresses & Skirts: For women's skirts & dresses we once again return to the muted colour palettes offered in natural tones as the key reference point, whether used in simple, pared back shapes for daywear or through the intricate use of feathers for evening. This direction has a graceful, soft feel that is accentuated through the use of materials from satin sheens that create beautiful drape or flecks of colour seen in the use of plummage to create whole skirts or panels of interest. 

Left: Image & Collection by Thierry Mugler Right: Image & Collection by Preen

Knitwear: Knitwear is either super chunky or ultra-fine gauge to create real contrast in this direction. This theme obviously includes rugged cable knits as would be expected of such an obviously outdoors look, however of particular interest are jumpers that have complex knit structures & patterning that give real direction and are particularly strong in menswear. 

As already seen womenswear knits are frayed & laddered to create a gentle delicate quality, whilst the other direction for men is the fine gauge knits seen in cardigans & jumpers normally to give the theme a soft, luxury feel that is seen also in a muted palette.

Images & Collection by Mjolk

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Remote
'Cast by Shadows' by Sruli Recht

Trousers: For menswear we either see solid jeanswear or a loose tapered fit in drill & sateen fabrics, interestingly we see the introduction of 'culotte' shaped shorts for men that have an ultra wide leg that are worn into the winter with chunky knits. For women we see a more cocooning approach with ultra-soft leggings or thick tights & long socks with Nordic or Fairisle patterns. 

Autumn Winter 2012-13 Fashion Trend Report - Remote
'Cast by Shadows' by Sruli Recht




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article resources

Downloadable Versions

Autumn Winter 2012-13 - 'Fragility' Fashion Report
 /files/files/AW 12 13 Trend Report Fashion FRAGILITY(1).pdf
Autumn Winter 2012-13 - 'Sharp' Fashion Report  
/files/files/AW 12 13 Trend Report Fashion SHARP.pdf
Autumn Winter 2012-13 - 'Radical' Fashion Report 
/files/files/AW 12 13 Trend Report Fashion RADICAL.pdf
Autumn Winter 2012-13 - 'Remote' Fashion Report
/files/files/AW 12 13 Trend Report Fashion REMOTE.pdf


For further information:

Damir Doma

Mandy Coon


Asger Juel Larsen

Iwajla Klinke

Julia deVille

Daniel Palillo x God's Prey

Astrid Andersen

Elanor Amoroso

Sayaka Kamakura


Antonio Berardi

Ekaterina Kukareva

Issever Bahri



Markus Lupfer


Emilio de la Morena



Six Lee

Matthew Miller

Agi & Sam

Jil Sander

Hien Le

Bruuns Bazaar


Bernhard Willhelm

Pam Hogg


Walter Van Beirendonck

Asger Juel Larsen

Shaun Samson

Flik Hall

Comme Des Garcons

Matthew Williamson

Borre Akkersdijk

Anna October



Norwegian Rain

Kajsa Skoglund

Henrik Vibskov

Thierry Mugler

Sruli Recht


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