Autumn Winter 2012-13 Textiles Trend Report
The Trend Boutique are pleased to bring you our latest trend report covering how the 4 main themes and directions are interpreted for textiles.
Taking in print, weave, knit & embellishment, this report aims to provide a comprehensive guide to the season from the de-coding of the main themes & movement between seasons to the key designers & brands to watch and the early indications from the major fabric & yarn trade fairs, such as Premiere Vision, Interfiliere and Pitti Filati.
This report also offers a rich source of inspiration that allows individual students & graduates the opportunity to develop their own interpretations and original work.
Here is The Trend Boutique's Autumn Winter 2012-13 Textiles Trend Report covering Fragility, Sharp, Radical & Remote:
The overall look for this trend is one of texture. A clear follow on within textiles from the previous Autumn Winter’s ‘Worn’ trend, the colour palette is dominated by an intense black, which becomes particularly expressive on lustrous materials. Exagerated hand-embroidery techniques as well as technically advanced structures produce lively surfaces with irregular textures. This is the direction to inject accents of metallic.
Left and Right: Collection and Images by Mandy Coon
Colours of ash, ivories, and soft browns bleed together through dip-dying and ikat woven fabrics.
Left: Collection by Katy Saunders, Middle: Collection by Walter Van Beirendonck, Right: Collection by Mandy Coon
Freestyle embroidery techniques are used for a scratched and distressed effect, fibres are over-brushed and bonded fabrics are torn to a barely there state, leaving textiles delicate and fragile.
Top Left: Courtesy of Amsterdam Fahsion Week, Bottom Left: Lightness of Being by Pepe Heykoop, Right: Graduate Collection by Paris Hawkins-Carr
- Dark and mystical textiles add an elegant and evening touch to the trend. Spiky laces are created from plasticised and metallised yarns.
Left: Fabric by Bacus courtesy of Premiere Vision, Top Right: Fabric by Solstiss courtesy of Premiere Vision, Bottom Right: Fabric by Ruffo Coli Tessuti courtesy of Premiere Vision
Denim is a key textile for this trend with edges excessively raw and frayed. Calculated shreds and slashes can be placed internally with the use of pre-placed stitch lines.
Left: Collection by Topshop Unique, Right: Collection Lookbook by Marques Almeida
Chunky yarns are felted into matted cords to create an exaggerated bouclé look. Looped, curled and trailing down, they create various embellishments.
Collection and all Images by Abby Lee
- Mass fringing creates whole sheets of fabric.
Left: Collection by Abby Lee, Right: Collection by Eleanor Amoroso
We look to post-modern design for inspiration in graphic prints with blocked areas of colour, shapes, and print. In keeping with the 'New Millenials' direction, patternings often look traditional until taking a closer look, revealing a witty play from what is at first expected. Motifs may appear conservative from a distance but be much quirkier in detail.
Left: Collection and Image by Ana Locking, Right: Collection and Image by Emilio de la Morena
Digital print is the key technique to create blocks and repeat designs. The computer world is represented with geometric patterns and graphic motifs.
Images and Wallpaper Collection by Kirath Ghundoo
- For overall prints, miniature patternings blur together to form one look from a distance and another when close up.
Images and Collection by Ana Locking
- As seen at the Thom Browne menswear show, quirky shapes on traditional wovens are perfect for the Sharp trend.
Images and Collection by Thom Browne
- The check plays a significant role within the sharp trend. Enlarged yarn-dyed checks, embroidered checks over jacquard patternings, or trompe l'oeil prints in knits and wovens all play a part.
Left: Fabric by Somelos Tecidos courtesy of Premiere Vision, Top Right: Fabric by Shinkong Textile courtesy of Premiere Vision, Bottom Right: Fabric by Consolidated Fabrics courtesy of Premiere Vision
- Pixelated monochromes come in the form of prints created from over-sized weave structures and knit formations.
Images and Collection by Neil Barrett
- Another traditional woven patterning, the houndstooth, takes on various personalities by playing with mixed-media, colour tones, and scale.
Left: Fabric by Albiate 1830 courtesy of Premiere Vision, Top Right: Fabric by Serikos Coll & Tess courtesy of Premiere Vision, Bottom Right: Fabric by Seidra courtesy of Premiere Vision
- One of our favourite Chanel shows for a while saw the use of graphic black lines on a cream or white background, something we see as a particularly important design, growing throughout the next year.
Left: Trends at Heimtextil, Top Right: Images and Collection by Chanel, Bottom Right: Images and collection by Neil Barrett
The continuing story throughout the Radical textiles direction is one of juxtaposed materials. With sustainability becoming a fundamental part of the textiles industry, the 'Radical' look follows on from key sustainable clothing brands with recycled fabrics being featured bonded, patched, or layered together. Colour takes on a role of creative expression, and may be used as a powerful source of differentiation.
Images and Collection by Phenomenon
- A DIY aesthetic is created by mixing up and playing with the rules. Multiple textures are thrown together, highlighted by the bright Radical palette clashed against a black and a white.
Wonky Pots and Images by Vanja Bazdulj
- Woven and knitted fabrics become one as they are bonded together through needle punching.
Images and Collection by Shaun Samson
- A strong trend at Première Vision, bi-fabrics are double-faced knitted or woven fabrics. Patterned vs. plain, bi-coloured, bi-textured or bi-functional.
Left: Fabric by Morelli courtesy of Premiere Vision, Top Right: Fabric by Lanificio Luigi Ricceri courtesy of Premiere Vision, Bottom Right: Fabric by LMA - Leandro Manuel Araujo courtesy of Premiere Vision
- Large patchworking areas are used within tailoring next to very traditional, neutral fabrics. Patches are less DIY and more couture due to the fabrics chosen and the squared-off cut.
Images and Collection by Walter Van Beirendonck
- Alternatively, patches can be a complete mish-mash. Fabric weights and drape are manipulated by the addition of over-adorned textile scraps attached to lightweight fabrics such as chiffon and nets.
Left and Top Right: Images and Collection by Jenny Postle, Bottom Left: Image and Collection by Araisara
Textiles are strongly inspired by luxurious fibres found in desolate landscapes and the cultures that use them for practical and spiritual reasons. Just as in the previous seasons, ‘Harvest’ trend for Spring Summer 2012 yarns are often woven, knitted, or felted in their raw state. Fabrics are therefore kept neutral or in a colour palette of calming greys, whites and pale blues, with hints of dusky pinks.
Scarves by Athena Procopiou
Fabrics are quilted in traditional patterns, not just for decoration, but for a cocooning warmth.
Images and Collection by Borre Akkersdijk
Fleece becomes more luxurious, made from natural wools such as baby alpaca and Icelandic sheep’s wool.
Fleece blankets by Vík Prjónsdóttir
- Remote's fabrics are super soft, it is important that the highest quality yarns are used.
Left: Fabric by COTO by Takisada Osaka courtesy of Premiere Vision, Right: Fabric by Sidonios Malhas courtesy of Premiere Vision
Native knits are created out of the highest quality yarns from faraway lands, carrying the luck and spirituality of the earth there.
Images and Collection by Thos
- We imagine animal skins somewhere between hair and feathers as inspiration for cosy, heavy weight fabrics.
Images and Collection by Andrei Amado
Feathers are a key embellishment, either used in placement as a symbolic reference of ‘taking flight’, or as an all-over textural quality.
Host IV Installation by Kate Mccgwire
As an added element to this trend, we see tightly woven twills and herringbones with weatherproof finishes, perfect for a more masculine take on the trend.
Campaign Images and Collection by Norwegian Rain