Spring Summer 2011 Colour & Fabric Trend Direction from Premiere Vision

on 22/2/10

According to Première Vision, Spring / Summer 2011 looks to be dynamic, cultivating strong, bold contrasts. Tailoring fabrics get a boost of modernity, whilst couture references mix with sportswear. The trend forums look beyond the economic crisis to a brighter future reflected in a cheeky opulence.

Colour Overview

The ‘nude’ colour palette continues for Spring Summer 2011 made new by their pairing with floral vivids and artificial pastels. The other leading colour story is around an aquatic grouping.

Colours are luminous, sparkling with a distinct artificial impression, altered by the fabric treatments and finishing techniques which render the colours and suppleness altered.

Colour Harmonies & Disharmonies

No 1: Aquatic Attraction – Vitreous Turquoise, Algae, Blue Tattoo, Green Jelly
No 2: Iced Suntan – Pink Beech, Iroko Wood, Garlic Flower, Brick, Vitreous Turquoise
No 3: Punched-up Calm – Silicone, Marshmallow, Phosphorous, (Vitamin C and Green Jelly as highlights)
No 4: Luminous Darks – Iroko Wood, Algae, Blue Tattoo (Synthetic highlights, H2O and Phosphorous Yellow)
No 5: Floral Opulence – Iroko Wood set against Green Jelly, Peony, Orangeade, Garlic Flower, Brick, Marshmallow and Phosphorous
No 6: Artificial Nature – Orangeade, Garlic Flower, Vitamin C, Phosphorous, Silicone, Marshmallow and Vitreous Blue

Reference Note for Spring / Summer 11 Colour Direction: Take a look at the recent Spring / Summer 2010 Haute Couture shows from Paris, which are a great reference for future colour trends. Frosted and candied pastels and very little black!

Trend Forum at Premiere Vision
Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

General Forum – Three Key Themes for Spring / Summer 2011

Cheeky Opulence – Optimistic with a Youthful Quality, a Mix of Street and Couture

  • Bright concentrated colours
  • Diluted and inky prints and jacquards
  • Bleeding abstract florals – digital print techniques
  • Wet-look finishes in dazzling colours
  • Lustred and slubbed cotton summer tweeds
  • ‘Under the sea’ shredded and disintegrating weaves
  • Crystallised laces in aquatic colours
  • Soft sparkle and subtle shot suiting fabrics
  • Featherweight fabrics and delicate embroideries
  • Washed-out cottons and silks
  • Softly tie-dyed print effects
  • Marbleised prints, ‘splattered ink’ jacquard
  • Pearlised finishes on wovens
  • Holographic print, incredible example on transparent base by Jacob Schlaepfer to give an ‘oil on water’ ethereal impression
  • Metallic and pearlised cotton tweeds
  • Natural coloured woven linen with subtle pearlised finish
  • Plasticised, glazed and technical finishes to give watery surface effects
  • Fluid and fine gauge knits with pearlised finish
  • Lustre jacquards
  • Cellular patterning and construction
  • Large scale graphic spots in ascorbic colours
  • Scarf placements and graphic imagery
  • Multi-coloured confetti and impressionistic prints

Trend Forum at Premiere Vision
Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

Regenerated Tailoring – The Neo Formal, New Fabric Developments Promote Less Distinction Between Work and Leisure, Chic Casualness

  • Tailoring turns more fluid and multi-functional
  • Reinvention of classic tailoring but with more suppleness
  • Fluid wools with more stretch and movement
  • Ultra matt and dense cotton weaves for shirting and suiting
  • Compact jerseys for precision cutting and ergonomic silhouettes
  • Crumpled yet neat wovens
  • Grainy surfaces, crepe constructions and dry handle
  • Blended fibres, the comeback of cupro used with wool, viscose and silk.
  • Compact weaves with washed finishes
  • Creamy epidermis, unbelievably soft and sueded and sensual
  • Natural fabrics mixed with the performance of synthetics
  • Talc-like silks
  • Enzymed and technical finishes
  • Micro patterns and texturing
  • Bonded and double-faced fabrics
  • Formal suiting is transforming culturally and technically, new fabric developments negate the need for linings, raw cut edges and bonding technologies suggest new shapes and styling possibilities

Sparkling Nonchalance – The Everyday Gets More Interesting

  • More adventurous laser cutting - layered cut effects and new fabric possibilities
  • Exacting and meticulous perforations
  • Faceted surfaces and 3D textures
  • Stretch piques, micro patterns, birds-eye weaves
  • Cotton tweeds and broadcloths
  • Textured and boucle yarns with plain weave structure
  • Lots of checks and larger scale ginghams
  • Small scale ‘liberty’ florals with a naturalistic sentiment
  • Disappearing prints, faded and indistinct
  • Soft colours, especially vegetal greens
  • Washed-out indigo printed checks
  • Indigo blues and washed out denims
  • Chambrays and washed linens
  • Powdered finishes
  • 1950’s casual influence
  • Masculine/feminine contrasts. Black chinzed lace and ciréd embroideries
  • Taffeta and 3D tapework
  • Authentic contrasted with synthetic

Seduction Trend Forum – Fancy and Fluid 

Seduction Forum - Premiere Vision Spring Summer 11 Trends
Seduction Forum at Premiere Vision

Fluidity and suppleness are the key fabric characteristics that dominate for Spring  / Summer 2011.

Summer tweeds are a huge direction especially if they have an element of sparkle, in particular silver highlights woven into macaroon shades.

Note: Reference the recent Couture collections in Paris where many of the fabrics used relate to this romantic vision. The fondant shades are also a strong direction in interiors, the paint and paper library’s hit new wall colour is “sugared violets”

  • Natural and dishevelled a lived-in appearance is still very relevant - lightweight linens [almost transparent] and raw linens blended with silk.
  • Rustic embellishments, imperfect and shredded decoration in the form of appliqué and tapework
  • Crumpled voiles and gauzes with a vegetal appearance
  • Basket and neat geometric textures
  • Raised and embossed fabrics
  • Voluminous fabrics with incredible lightness
  • Crepe and cloque weaves, crumpled and wrinkled taffetas and satins
  • Slippery fluidity – silks and polyesters
  • Fondant frilled edges, embroidered, knitted and ruched
  • Lacquered, liquid and reflective finishes on many bases, especially chiffons and laces
  • Extra dense satins with elastane for sculptured styling
  • Hybrid prints, digitally manipulated animal prints
  • Alexander McQueen engineered placements lead the way
  • Neo camouflage prints
  • Griffonné [scrawled] and handrawn imagery
  • Pointillist, painterly and impressionistic prints
  • Van Gogh exhibition at the Royal Academy in London
  • Artificial nature – large scale photographic pictorial images, overblown florals, hybrid animal and fish scales
  • Ethnic exoticism - Ikat and chine weaves and prints
  • Diluted florals – inky and bleeding florals. Gradated colour and wavy patterns
  • Bird’s feathers and butterfly wings, kaleidoscopic and exotic

Seduction Trend Forum - Premiere Vision
Seduction Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

Distinction Trend Forum – Elegant Formal Tailoring

Distinction Trend Forum at Premiere Vision
Distinction Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

Tailoring takes on a more fluid form. Modern, chic fabrics mixing natural and synthetic fibres for a casual elegance

Note: There is a buzz again for British cloths and the art of tailoring. Saville Row is having a renaissance, rock stars are favouring a bespoke suit as well a new breed of consumers who are aspiring to quality and heritage dressing. Tailoring is influencing all fashion categories in both men’s and womenswear from the bespoke through to the high street.

The focus is on mixing tradition and innovation. There is a blurring of the boundaries between tailoring and casual pieces and juxtapositions of contrasting fabrics in styling.

Focus: Alexander McQueen - following his death much is being written about his masterful tailoring abilities to cut a mans’ suit

Distinction Trend Forum at Premiere Vision
Distinction Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

General Impressions:

Naturally relaxed linen blends: washed finishing and softened handles for suppleness. Linen blended with silks, wool and cotton for a vegetal refinement. Misty greens and greys are a strong colour story

Compact Roundness: double faced cottons, piqués, neat plain weaves, extra flat gabardines. Fabrics give a rounded silhouette with the benefit of a touch of stretch.

Patterning: micro-ginghams, madras, mini-houndstooth checks and ticking stripes.

Men – Technical wool/polyamide and crisp white shirtings softened by transparencies and washed effects. Glazed and mercerised cottons

Woman – Super light tailored fabrics, rippling silk tops, washed out, and imperfectly coloured voiles

Tailoring Trends – 2 Stories 

Menswear – 1950’S City

Retro – Chic mohair / silk blends for suiting. The important impression is one of lightness and functionality achieved by mixing synthetics with natural fibres. Larger scale multicoloured checks, micro florals, nautical stripes and micro spots for shirts and linings.

Note: The re-emergence of Pop Art, comic book heroes, 1950’s fashion photography, flags and The Beatles, especially Sergeant Pepper.

Womenswear – Smart and Preppy

Smart and preppy with strong menswear references. A neatness to silhouettes, rounded lines. Matt cottons and synthetics, piqué structures, compact knits. Oxford weaves from the man’s wardrobe. Polo shirts and poplins.

Relax Trend Forum – Casual, Sports and Denim

Relax Trend Forum Premiere Vision
Relax Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

Comfort is the big message within this forum where suppleness, softness and lightness is the overarching direction.

  • Denim and Jeanswear is moving in a very supple direction with powdered finishes, fluid, ultra soft handles and far less weighty. Elegance returns to denim. Washed effects are extremely neat and more subtle than recent seasons. Dirty and dusty appearance, yarn dyed and unevenly dyed effects
  • Soft jerseys, imperfections by way of perforations
  • Glazed cottons and linen blends, silicone handle
  • Taffeta ginghams
  • Micro cotton lawn liberty florals
  • Ultra washed finishes for chambrays and stripes
  • Waxed coatings for coats and jacket qualities
  • Exotic and paisley prints
  • Indigo story, florals in tonal blues, dip-dyed prints

Relax Trend Forum at Premiere Vision
Relax Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

Pulsation Trend Forum  – Sport, Technical and Performance

Pulsation Trend Forum Premiere Vision
Pulsation Trend Forum at Premiere Vision

The vibrancy of the colour hits as you approach this forum. The main messages and groupings fell into:

ULTRA LIGHTWEIGHT
30gm weightless weaves with a combination of finishes to give a tracing paper appeal. Wind and water resistance in featherweight qualities

FINISHES AND MULTI-LAYERING
Composite layers, membranes and bondings to give fabrics dual or triple performance: water-resistance, UV protection, climate control, breathability, wind resistance

TECHNICAL KNITS
Rubberised jerseys and meshes with added performance benefits. Stretch and bi-stretch, second skin, ultra-fine rubberised finishes in fresh intense colours

ULTRA-MATT
Fast-dry cottons and synthetics. Pique weaves and neat textures. Embossed and moiré surface interest. Lightweight outdoors trekking qualities. Eco and responsible finishes. Bio cotton, recycled cotton and linen. Natural dyes especially for linens/cottons

CITY TECHNICALS
Technical taffetas pearlised and satinised finishes. Monotone print on synthetic base, e.g. lace print

Trend Forum Premiere Vision
Pulsation Trend Forum at Premiere Vision
Dressy Beachwear

Latex and coated swim fabrics. Technical satins and blackened silver shot fabrics. Ginghams, smocked and deckchair stripes. Jungle and camouflage prints with metallised and wet finishes.

NOTE: Recent Brigitte Bardot exhibition in Paris

Summmary of Key Fabric Directions

  • Pastel tweeds with a hint of sparkle, boucle and slubbed yarns
  • Ikat jacquard weaves and chine florals
  • Liquid jerseys, Cupro and Tencel add ultra soft finishes
  • Tailoring fabrics very important. ‘Not so serious’ tailoring fabrics with fluidity and a twist of the unexpected; a hint of sparkle or a luminous pinstripe
  • Deconstructed transparent linens, ultra soft, sparkle print finish, rustic and romantic
  • Subtle iridescences through techniques such as holographic printing
  • Lacquered and chinzed finishes
  • Silver and crystal embellishment
  • Stone washed voiles and cottons
  • Worn-in decorative laces, rusted and decomposed
  • Neat and dense weaves, micro patterning
  • Digital printing is more important, impressionistic and painterly styles, multi-coloured exuberance
  • Ultra lightweight synthetics – technical sports and urban city wear
  • Nano printing on super lightweight fabrics
  • Epidermal and ciréd surfaces
  • Checks and ginghams
  • Iridescent weaves, laces and knits
  • Volumes in seersucker, cloque, smocking, ruching and embossing
  • Fluid silks and satins, glazed finishes








 

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