Spring Summer 2013 Textiles Trend Report

on 30/1/12

The Trend Boutique are pleased to present our Spring Summer 2013 product trend report for Textiles. Covering how the four major trend directions of Nouveau Riche, Converge, Repair, and Carnival are interpreted across textiles whilst taking a looking at the latest innovations emerging for major trade fairs such as Heimtextil, Interfiliere, Pitti Filatti and Premiere Vision.

With a rich source of inspiration & essential references, this in-depth report provides an essential starting point for the season.

Nouveau Riche

After 6 years and a reported £435 million restoration, the iconic Bolshoi Theatre in Moscow was re-opened late 2011.  The spectacular audience hall has regained its initial beauty, with porcelain white arabesques, raspberry-red velvets, and Renaissance detailing covered in gold with a Byzantine style.  Along with the picturesque ceiling piece titled "Apollo and Muses", this beautiful theatre provides a magnitude of rich inspiration representing the 'Nouveau Riche' theme and its return to luxury codes.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
The Bolshoi Theatre, Photographed by: Sergei Antipov

  • For textiles 'Nouveau Riche' is very much an interiors theme, with traditional woven fabrics created on original workshop looms, maintaining a textile of the highest standard.  Patternings come from the Parisian textiles of Versailles and L'Opéra Garnier.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Left 2 Images: Fabrics by Prelle.  Right: Versailles Queen's Chamber via Creative Commons

  • White and gold play key roles within the colour palette.  Decorative designs take on a more modern feel with the use of just two or three colours.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Left: Indigo Home Edition Brussels.  Right: Brochure by Rubelli

  • Lace, burnt-out fabrics and ciselé velvets are bonded with ribbons and beadings producing an over-adorned textile of opulent colours and metallics.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Images and Collection by Christopher Kane

  • Throughout history, tassels have been used as symobols of status - both military rank and religious order.  The art of passementerie represented wealth and power in 16th and 17th century France, and for 'Nouveau Riche' this luxury craftsmanship returns with tassels in bright colours, extra long, oversized or with a unique modern twist.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Left: Textile Degree Show by Jade Barnfield.  Right: Dress by Lauren Fowler

  • We have already seen jacquard wovens within the 'Nouveau Riche' trend, but for a fresher take on this direction we look to tone-on-tone designs in crystal arrangements.  Crystals also appear as ornate decorations in themselves.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Top Left: Image and Collection by Christopher Kane.  Bottom Left: Image and Collection by Amapo.  Right 2 Images: Jacquard Designs by Amy Jo Lewis

  • Print designs take on a slightly trompe l'oeil appearance with jewels in popping colours seeming to embellish the fabrics.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Left: Image and Collection by Prabal Gurung.  Right: Image and Collection by CC Kuo

  • Baroque prints can be used as a masculine take on the trend, with darker undertones, and as placement prints matched against prints with a younger edge.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Nouveau Riche
Left: Scarf by Lucy Jay.  Right: Image and Collection by Leitmotiv

Converge

For the 'Converge' trend, we follow a colour scheme of sugary yet muted pastels with a focus on finishes within textiles.  Glossy plasticity and over-coatings are manipulated, blurring the levels of opacity and introducing a delicate sheen.  The other half of this direction takes on the "science or art?" debate, as we look for new ways of producing textiles that are not just technologically advanced but also works of art.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Left: Bark Painting by Amy Jo Lewis.  Right: Resort 2012 Lookbook by Issey Miyake

  • Plastic textiles in sugary colours that almost look edible are cut with raw edges in basic shapes.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Left: Image and Collection by Philipp Schuller.  Right: Trends at Heimtextil

  • Opaques, transparents and translucent fabrics are layered and patched together to show and reveal the bodies figure.  Translucents come with a shine or milky, matt finish.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Left: Image and Collection by Itziar Vaquer.  Right: Image and Collection by Maria Bonita

  • Plastics can be recycled by being knitted or melted to form 3D structures.  Transparent tints can be stacked to produce a stronger colour.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Left: Recyclethic - the research area at Pitti Filati.  Right: Rings by Lucy Faulke

  • Structured materials are converged with soft fibres through knitting or weaving; within select placements or all over for dramatic effect.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Left: Knitted Design by Lucy Faulke.  Right: Woven Design by Jane Evans

  • As 'Converge' is a technology based trend, we look for new ways to produce textiles, minimum waste is a key requirement as we continue to work towards a more environmentally friendly textiles industry.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Images and Collection by Studio Koya

  • Protein fibres play a large part in the role af sustainability within the textiles industry.  Qmilch is a textile made from milk fibre which is the world's first man-made fibre that is produced without any chemicals and targeted energy, resource and man-power.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Qmilch - Fiber Innovation.  Photography by Anny CK Photography 

  • Bridging the split between science and art is principle within the converge trend; in textiles we look towards science as not only an inspiration point but also for it's technological properties.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Converge
Normal Flora by Anna Dumitriu

Repair

The 'Repair' trend is a direct consequence of the 'Radical' trend we featured for Autumn Winter 2012-13.  We started looking at bi-fabrics within this previous trend after they were a popular theme at Autumn Winter 2012-13's Première Vision, but unlike the juxtaposition seen within the 'Radical' trend, 'Repair's' bi-fabrics are harmoniously paired together.  Colour tones fit each other perfectly, while patterns and designs are often geometric, leading shapes in to a synergy of tessellation.

Textiles Trend Report AW12-13 - Repair
Fabric Image courtesy of Dutch Design Week.  Photographer: Sjoerd Eickman

  • Complimentary colour duos are used to strong effect when placed within a repeat geometric pattern.

Textiles Trend Report AW12-13 - Repair
Left: Stitched Wallpaper by Kaylee Hibbert.  Right: RomboPop by Nacho Filella Design

  • Contrasting yarns can be used in unison for textured interior fabrics.  Knitted fabrics may use both yarns simultaneously or alternate for a varied effect.  Woven fabrics can utalise the warp and weft by using contrasting colours and varying the interlacement structure.

Textiles Trend Report AW12-13 - Repair
Left: Fabric by Stephen Walters & Sons courtesy of Premiere Vision.  Right: Fabric courtesy of Heimtextil

  • Wallpaper is an ideal product of the 'repair' trend.  We have seen various possibilities for repairing old wallpaper to create a new design, such as Droog's 'Peepshow' wallpaper, and love this idea of wallpaper design in squares that can be pieced together to generate multiple unique patternings.

Textiles Trend Report AW12-13 - Repair
Left: Wall Decoration by Lene Toni Kjeld.  Right: Jigsaw Wallpaper by Tracy Kendall

  • Sticker wallpaper is another optimistic design, that appears to be a traditional pattern until closer inspection.

Textiles Trend Report AW12-13 - Repair
The Salon at Sundown: an installation by Payton Turner and Brian Kaspr

  • An alternative direction for this trend is to take a positive spin on the patternings that come from damage.  Smoke damage and water damage both create unpredictable markings and delicately beautiful designs.

Textiles Trend Report AW12-13 - Repair
Smoke Boxes // Wallpaper by Kate Miles

Carnival

'Carnival' is our high Summer trend, with popping colours and tropical motifs straight from the heat and passion of Brazil.  Playing with multi-colour is the key textiles trend as we look for alternative ways of mixing mouth watering rainbows together.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Images and Collection by Chrisopher Kane

  • Digital printing lends itself to controlled space-dyed effects, where colours are limitless and can be blurred together or overlayed as a colour mix.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Left: TGM International courtesy of Premiere Vision.  Right: Image and Collection by Kico Kids

  • Feathers were a strong trend for Autumn Winter 2012-13's 'Remote' direction and we see this theme continue into Spring Summer 2013 with bright feather designs covering textiles.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Textile Design by Chloe Hamblin

  • Combining space dyed yarns with a jacquard woven fabric produces a "riot of colour" representative of Brazil's colourful carnivals.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Textile Design by Lok Ting Carol Pau

  • Tropical motifs adorn fabrics from cottons to silks; animal prints, feathers, palm leaves, plumes and floras all amalgamate together.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Left: Tropicalia Brasileira 13 by Criativa Magazine.  Right: Collection and Images by Jason Wu

  • Illustrative prints feature regularly across this trend, with certain imagery such as exotic birds consistently reappearing.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Left: Womenswear Collection by Leitmotiv.  Right: Menswear Collection by Leitmotiv

  • Bird wings are digitally printed from photography and purposefully placed to contour the body.

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Left & Middle: Images and Collection by Lenny.  Right: Image and Collection by Manish Arora

  • Patternings are re-coloured in mouth-watering tones such as 'Grape Jam' and 'Firecracker', broken up, and clashed back together. 

Textiles Trend Report SS13 - Carnival
Top Left: Margarita by Bevshots.  Bottom Left: Daiquiri by Bevshots.  Right: Pierrot Tropical by Fashion Forward Brazil

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article resources

Downloadable Version:
/files/files/TEXTILES TREND REPORT SS13 download.pdf

For further information visit:

Bolshoi
http://www.bolshoi.ru/en/

Prelle
http://prelle.fr/en/

Rubelli
http://www.rubelli.com/

Jade Barnfield
http://www.chelseadegreeshow.org
/2011/author/jbarnfield/

Lauren Fowler
http://www.laurenkathleenfowler.com/

Amapo
http://www.amapo.com.br/

Amy Jo Lewis
http://amyjolewis.co.uk/

Prabal Gurung
http://prabalgurung.com/

CC Kuo
http://www.cckuo.com/

Lucy Jay
http://lucy-jay.com/home.php

Leitmotiv
http://www.leit-motiv.com

Issey Miyake
http://www.isseymiyake.com

Philipp Schuller
http://www.philippschueller.com/

Itziar Vaquer
http://www.rca.ac.uk/Default.aspx?
ContentID=512077&groupID=512077

Maria Bonita
http://www.mariabonita.com.br

Pitti Filati
http://www.pittimmagine.com/en

Lucy Faulke
http://www.lucyfaulke.com/

Jane Evans
http://www.jane-evans.co.uk

Studio Koya
http://www.studiokoya.com

Qmilch
http://www.milkotex.com/

Anna Dumitriu
http://www.normalflora.co.uk

Dutch Design Week
http://www.ddw.nl/

Sjoerd Eickman
http://www.sjoerdeickmans.nl

Kaylee Hibbert
http://kaylee-hibbert-textiles.tumblr.com/

Nacho Filella Design
http://www.textiledesign.us

Première Vision
http://www.premierevision.com

Heimtextil
http://www.heimtextil.de

Lene Toni Kjeld
http://www.walldecoration.dk/

Tracy Kendall
http://tracykendall.com

Payton Turner
http://www.flatvernacular.com

Kate Miles
http://www.katemiles.co.uk

Kico Kids
http://kicokids.com/

Chloe Hamblin
http://www.chelseadegreeshow.org/
2011/author/chamblin/

Lok Ting Carol Pau
http://showtime.arts.ac.uk/loktingcarol

Criativa Magazine
http://revistacriativa.globo.com/

Jason Wu
http://jasonwustudio.com/

Leitmotiv
http://www.leit-motiv.com/

Lenny
http://www.lennyswimwear.com/

Bevshots
http://www.bevshots.com

Fashion Forward
http://ffw.com.br

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