Spring Summer 2015 Menswear Collections - Paris
The Trend Boutique presents the Spring Summer 2015 Menswear Collections from Paris. Watch the video highlights and backstage coverage of these directional catwalk shows and installations from many of the world's leading designers.
Taking a break from his day job at Dior, Raf Simons presented an impeccable menswear collection for Spring Summer 2015 in Paris with a strong mix of beautiful tailoring and sportswear detailing. With military references, the collection featured sailor collars with overextended panels at the back with unique collages, and both these and the main parts of the collection were adorned with patches that featured digital photos and RS emblems. This season was an effortless masterclass in the Raf Simons' signature style.
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
A supremely expressive collection was seen at Walter Van Beirendonck for Spring Summer 2015 as the designer continues to use his collections to express his ideas and opinions about the wider world. Mixing rich brocade jackets with loose fitting drawstring cream trousers, it was the juxtaposition of oriental kimono / judo belts and simple press studs that made additional focus fall on the fastenings. This season also featured a collaboration with Scooter Laforge whose artwork was either woven or printed before being incorporated into the collection making this a true labour of love and craftsmanship.
A laid-back adventurer spirit prevails at Issey Miyake for Spring Summer 2014 with casual bermuda shorts and cropped trousers, double breasted jackets and waistcoats, all worn with large scarves tied simply across the shoulders and accessorised with large men's tote bags carried as clutches or drawstring duffels. An eccletic mix of bold prints ranged from over-dyed indigo ombre to creatures from the deep and tropical florals and fruit.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
Über-cool sportwear styling was once again a key focus at the 3.1 Phillip Lim catwalk show for Spring Summer 2015. The collection featured a bold mix of checks and stripes alongside beautifully neutral all-in-one overalls and soft fluid tailoring and oversized bermuda shorts. The whole look finished with preppy notes with a slimmer silhouette in monochrome with pastel knits and bombers.
'Urban warrior' style tunics and full body paint were prevalent at Rick Owens Spring Summer 2015 collection in Paris. Featuring a bold colour palette and striking primitive illustrations the collection was teamed with oversized shorts and futuristic boots. This season's collection was a perfect blend between theatre and wearable pieces - and as ever Rick Owens delivered another directional ensemble.
A soft sportsluxe feel from Valentino for Spring Summer 2015 with fluid overcoats and bomber jackets with simple zip and button detailing. Silhouettes are layered with sporty 'scout' style scarves and ornate pin fastenings whilst embellishments continue to embrace Valentino's 'camouflage' theme with tone on tone patterning featuring exquisite butterfly and floral motifs.
Kim Jones takes us on an evocative journey to India for Louis Vuitton's Spring Summer 2015 menswear collection with a rich spice colour palette effortlessly combined with touches of Tom Cruise in Top Gun. Uniform references such as all-in-one overalls, aviator shades and bomber jackets create a crisp, clean silhouette - perfect for the modern jetset traveller.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Inspired by dancers, from Noureev to the Rosa, Dries Van Noten's Spring Summer 2015 collection featured a sensual amount of skin, with fluid long robes worn with jogging bottoms, and leotards that became braces worn over shirts, whilst embroidered waistcoats represented harnesses. Dance references were scattered throughout the collection from dressing room encounters to a more flamboyant stage presence.
KRIS VAN ASSCHE
An opulent trompe d'oeil entrance, yet stripped back simplicity was the flavour of Kris Van Assche's Spring Summer 2015 catwalk show. Military and retro street culture references were present throughout with eighties green nylon bomber jackets worn with trousers ripped at the knee. Whilst crisp white shirts and narrow ties, striped knitwear and parkas complete the layered styling for the season.
Hosting the Spring Summer 2015 catwalk show in his own Paris studio Yohji Yamamoto created an initimate and personal space to deliver his latest collection. Signature silhouettes featuring floaty tailoring and global references were given a quirky twist with 'missing person' style posters and graphic embellishments featuring both the designer in name and picture form.
Set outside against a real Parisian backdrop, this Spring Summer 2014 catwalk show by designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon for Kenzo had the perfect setting for a collection that celebrated key landmarks and imagery from around the world. With a sugary pastel colour palette, bold stripes and plays on giant monochrome dots this season's menswear from Kenzo offered the most beautiful clean silhouettes and crisp, fresh direction for the label.
The three piece suit was updated for Spring Summer 2014 by Kris Van Assche, the designer at the helm of Dior Homme, with low scoop necked striped sweaters replacing the waistcoat. Super, sharp tailoring and a primary colour palette made the collection both supremely wearable and fresh in equal measure. Perfectly executed from start to finish, the collection is completed with arty scribbles and brush stroke prints as a final flourish.
An unusual long winding catwalk at the Ecole de Medecine gave a feeling of discovery to the Hermès Spring Summer 2014. Soft tone on tone botanical and graphic prints were interspersed with bolder pops of colour on bomber jackets and knitwear, and overall the collection struck the right balance between fluid, light tailoring and sophisticated sportswear that you would expect from this luxury label.
Clean-cut tailoring and fitted casualwear with a touch of swagger was the order of the day for the Lanvin Spring Summer 2014 collection. With a predominately monochrome palette, the touches of modern sartorial elegance were added through neckerchiefs, unfinished raw edges and fitted leather bombers with rolled up sleeves. Luxurious satin and suede finish fabrics are seen throughout and completes the slightly decadent 'rock & roll' feel of the collection.
A botanical theme ran throughout of Paul Smith's Spring Summer 2014 menswear show from the array of plants placed around the catwalk to the bold prints seen across the whole collection. As always Paul Smith delivered a deft touch when it came to chosen palette with swathes of colour that made use of the full spectrum, particular highlights of the collection were the fringed detailing, the striking chevron trousers and knits, and the soft tone on tone checks and stripes.
A complete sense of theatre was present at Thom Browne, with models sat in formation and the whole Spring Summer 2014 show delivered with surreal precision. Inspired by the film Tron, fitted tailored uniforms mirrored the human body with muscle shaped panels whilst angular silhouettes, embellished motifs and dayglo palettes created a bold, and exuberant take on the military theme.